α-arbutinna β-arbutin ni ibinyabutabire bibiri bifitanye isano ya hafi bikunze gukoreshwa mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu kugira ngo bigire urumuri kandi bikongere. Nubwo bisangiye imiterere n'imikorere bisa, hari itandukaniro rito hagati yabyo rishobora kugira ingaruka ku mikorere yabyo ndetse n'ingaruka mbi zishobora kubaho.
Mu miterere, α-arbutin na β-arbutin byombi ni glycosides za hydroquinone, bivuze ko zifite molekile ya glucose ifatanye na molekile ya hydroquinone. Uku gusana kw'imiterere bituma ibyo bintu byombi bibuza enzyme tyrosinase, igira uruhare mu ikorwa rya melanin. Mu kubuza tyrosinase, ibi bintu bishobora gufasha kugabanya ikorwa rya melanin, bigatuma uruhu rugira ibara ryoroheje kandi ringana.
Itandukaniro ry'ibanze riri hagati ya α-arbutin na β-arbutin riri mu mwanya w'umugozi wa glycosidic uri hagati ya glucose na hydroquinone:
α-arbutin: Muri α-arbutin, umugozi wa glycosidic ufatanye n'aho impeta ya hydroquinone iri. Iyi migozi bakeka ko yongera ubushobozi bwo gushonga no gushonga kwa α-arbutin, bigatuma irushaho kugira akamaro mu gukoresha uruhu. Umugozi wa glycosidic ugabanya kandi ubushobozi bwo gushonga kwa hydroquinone, bishobora gutuma habaho ibintu byijimye birwanya ingaruka zifuzwa zo kongerera uruhu urumuri.
β-arbutin: Muri β-arbutin, umugozi wa glycosidic ufatanye n'aho impeta ya hydroquinone iri. Nubwo β-arbutin nayo igira akamaro mu gukumira tyrosinase, ishobora kuba idakomeye nka α-arbutin kandi ikaba ishobora kwibasirwa n'ibyuka. Iyi oxidation ishobora gutuma habaho ibintu by'umukara bidakenewe cyane mu gutuma uruhu rusa neza.
Bitewe nuko ihora ihindagurika kandi ishonga neza, α-arbutin ikunze gufatwa nk'uburyo bwiza kandi bwifuzwa cyane mu kwita ku ruhu. Bikekwa ko itanga umusaruro mwiza wo koroshya uruhu kandi ntabwo ishobora gutera ibara ry'uruhu cyangwa ingaruka mbi zitari ngombwa.
Iyo utekereje ku bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu birimoarbutin, ni ngombwa gusoma icyapa cy'ibikubiye muri iki gikoresho kugira ngo umenye niba α-arbutin cyangwa β-arbutin bikoreshwa. Nubwo ibi binyabutabire byombi bishobora kugira akamaro, α-arbutin muri rusange ifatwa nk'amahitamo meza bitewe n'uko ihamye kandi ifite imbaraga nyinshi.
Ni ngombwa kandi kumenya ko uruhu rw'umuntu ku giti cye rushobora gutandukana. Hari abantu bashobora kugira ingaruka mbi nko kubabara uruhu cyangwa gutukura iyo bakoresheje imiti irimo arbutin. Kimwe n'ibindi bintu byose bikoreshwa mu kwita ku ruhu, ni byiza gukora isuzuma ry'ibice mbere yo gukoresha umuti ku ruhu runini no kugisha inama abaganga b'uruhu niba ufite impungenge ku ngaruka zishobora kubaho.
Muri make, α-arbutin na β-arbutin byombi ni glycosides za hydroquinone zikoreshwa mu gutuma uruhu rurushaho kumera neza. Ariko, gushyira α-arbutin mu mwanya wa glycosidic kuri alpha bituma irushaho guhagarara neza no gushonga, bigatuma iba amahitamo meza cyane ku bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu bigamije kugabanya ibara ry’uruhu no kugera ku ruhu rwiza.
Igihe cyo kohereza: 30 Kanama-2023
